
This is strictly not much of a "from garden to kitchen" dish...However, if I look retrospectively over all the risottos we've made (and happy times spent with friends), the vegetables from the garden have this remarkable knack of making their way into the dish.
First of all, what is risotto, you might ask? Speaking as a non-native maker of risotto, risotto is this Italian dish which involves frying rice, adding wine and stock, and generally either some leftovers from a previous meal or some fresh vegetable and/or meat added. It's sort of Italian paella (or is paella a sort of Spanish risotto?) They do, however, differ in certain structural principles. So don't take the analogy too far, okay?
Now, I've made risotto all my life, but it was not until Stefania taught me how to do it properly, that I finally felt happy with my risotto to the point now that I am quite proud of it.
My fondest memory of making risotto was the first time I did it with Stefania and that is where the garden comes in. Because she's vegetarian, Yuhfen and I decided to make a vegetable stock that was the greatest stock I think we ever made. We literally ransacked the garden for leeks, herbs, Swiss chard, potatoes, carrots, and lots of other things I can't even recall now. (Yuhfen: Some cabbage family leaves. Like the leaves of broccoli.) We stuffed them all into a stock pot and boiled it. That was truly an amazing stock which in turn made an amazing risotto.
So back to the story. As you should be realizing, before you start risotto, you need a supply of stock on the boil. I emphasize that because the stock needs to be boiling/simmering as it is added to the risotto. Apart from the vegetable stock from the garden, I often make chicken stock by going to the grocery store, buying a whole roasted chicken, eating it over a couple of days, and then boiling up the bones for an hour or two. You can also make stock out of pork ribs or whatever. (Yuhfen: this is what you can do with the leftover Thanksgiving turkey bones.)
So you have your stock on the boil. You should chop up an onion, get a large (12 inch) frying pan with lid, put some oil in and start frying the onions. When they're cooked a bit, you should add about two cups of rice and fry that too with the onions. Be generous with the oil so that all the rice is coated. At this point I have to make two digressions:
Digression 1: Why fry the rice? The purpose of frying the rice is to produce a final risotto in which the rice is "al dente" rather than a nasty mush. This is very important to Italians. What happens is that the oil is forced into the rice grain, and when water (stock) is added later, it repels the water or at least makes it more difficult for the water to penetrate to the center of the grain. The result is that the finished risotto is al dente or even slightly crunchy.
Digression 2: What sort of rice should you use? The short answer is "any". But the type of rice you use will determine what sort of risotto you get. This is where Yuhfen and I differ fairly radically. Yuhfen likes her risotto "creamy" which is achieved by using unwashed short grain rice. If you like your risotto "not creamy" as I do, it is best to use par-boiled rice. I've seen it in some grocery stores, but not all. You're more likely to find it at an "international" store.
Okay, back to the big frying pan. Your rice is in there with the onions frying at medium-high temperature in the oil. Keep it going for a few minutes. Stir and mix constantly. I use a wooden spatula because it can take the heat and not scratch the pan. Listen for the first sounds of popping rice grains. You need to fry the rice well, okay? When you start to hear the rice popping immediately quench with a cup of excellent white wine (a good plan is to drink the rest of the bottle with dinner) and about a cup of the boiling stock. (Yuhfen: A good way to judge if the rice is ready is the rice should turn translucent. Last time I made it, I found that if I really fry the rice well at this stage, the end result come out much better. You can use red wine to pair with particular ingredients. One time we cook ham with red wine, the end result is a beautiful purple-ish risotto.) (Don't forget to lower the heat to low after you add the wine. From now on, keep the heat at the level to keep the whole thing lightly simmering.)
Now you keep adding stock as it gets absorbed, one ladle scoop at a time, stirring occasionally and if you like, you can cover the pan with the lid for short periods. The trick is that the risotto should never stop boiling. (Yuhfen: I like the Alton Brown method. Which is add enough to cover the rice each time. This way you don't need to keep adding and stirring.)
At the appropriate point (so that they don't get overcooked) you need to add the extra ingredients. This also requires a bit of digression. In paella one often adds a whole bunch of stuff, various sea foods or whatever. Stefania taught me to keep it simple (and I'm sold on this now). So, add only one or two ingredients. Here are a few examples: 1. Radicchio, or 2. mushrooms, or 3. mushrooms and ham, or 4. mushrooms and chicken (pre-cooked), or 5. mushrooms and sausage (pre-cooked), or 6. asparagus, or 7. asparagus and ham, or 8. artichoke hearts. Hopefully you get the picture. Pick a favorite ingredient (preferably from the garden), or try a combination of two things you think will work well together. (Yuhfen: Some idea about when to add the extra ingredients. Put the thing in at the time that it would be perfectly cooked when the rice is done. For example, fresh mushroom take no time to cook. Put them in when the rice is almost done. For vegetable, I would add them while the rice still under cooked. Ham or bacon, put them in with the onion so the flavor will be absorbed by the rice.)
As you near the finish, add some combination of your favorite herbs. As always with herbs, experiment combining herbs with ingredients and combining herbs with each other. Make yourself a surprise! Herbs are very forgiving, but oregano is a perennial favorite. (Yuhfen: A fool proof combination is oregano + thyme.) Remember to taste, season with salt and pepper all the way through the process from the beginning and keep tasting.
When your rice is al dente, turn off the stove, add a tablespoon of butter, stir in, and grate some parmesan cheese on top. Stir that in too. Enjoy!
Apologies if that was long winded, but risotto is very special and deserves that sort of attention. Have fun making it!
